Laptop Buying Guide

Torn between netbook and notebook? Boggled by dongles? Puzzled by processors? We offer a simple lay of the land for your next laptop purchase in our Laptop Buying Guide.

When you have to jiggle the power connector just right to get your seven-year-old ThinkPad to wheeze to life, only to take 20 minutes to load a YouTube video, it’s time to put the old beast out to pasture and start anew. But where do you begin in today’s notebook market, which has expanded so much that portables now outsell desktops? With a buying guide, of course. Use this comprehensive buying guide to examine some of the key factors and specs to check when buying a new notebook computer.

Size and Form Factor

Unlike on a desktop, where size and shape are an afterthought for a system you’ll likely kick under a desk anyway, the chassis on a laptop makes all the difference in usability. Buy something too small, and you’ll type at half the speed and squint to make out your latest e-mails and Facebook updates. Buy too big, and you’ll pass out from exhaustion after trying to lug the monster from one room to the next.

You’ll find all sorts of ways to describe different classes of laptops, but screen size is the common denominator. At 12 inches and below, portable computers are typically branded as netbooks. Above 12 inches, they’re laptops or notebooks, and somewhere around 16 inches – it gets a little fuzzy – you run into desktop replacements. To add to that confusion, any notebook with a screen that can swivel around and lay flat is typically called a tablet PC, regardless of the size.

If you’re buying a laptop to use all the time as your primary computer, we wouldn’t advise going any smaller than 13.3 inches. Laptops in that tiny size range are easy to tote, but not comfortable enough for that eight-hour date with a term paper, and typically come in light on power as well. A 14- or 15-inch inch screen makes for a good all-around machine that will make you perfectly happy at home or on the road. Stepping up to anything larger typically diminishes portability quite a bit –especially because the large displays and powerful hardware that occupy that space typically drain batteries like kindergarteners drain juice boxes. But if you plan to use them at home most of the time, you’ll find the computing experience almost like using a desktop.

Processor

The most important bit of hardware in your notebook can also be one of the most difficult to choose. Between Intel and AMD, models lines including Pentium, Core 2 Duo, Athlon, Sempron, and more, GHz ratings that aren’t comparable between companies, things start to look pretty complicated. PCWorld offers one of the most comprehensive guides on the subject, but let’s look at just the basics.

For most users, two is the magic number for cores. Two cores will offer excellent multitasking capability, and because they’ve become a de facto standard for new PCs, they’re reasonably affordable, too. Three or four cores will obviously offer more performance – especially for processor-intense applications like video editing – but most users simply won’t take advantage of all the extra horsepower, and you won’t find them until you step up to about 16 inches.

Clock speeds (ex. 3.2GHz) are still an important indicator of CPU performance, but can only really be compared within similar lines. A 2.0GHz Intel Atom processor is faster than 1.6GHz Intel Atom processor, but not necessarily faster than a 1.8GHz Intel Core 2 Duo. Other factors include front-side bus speed, onboard cache, whether it’s a 32- or 64-bit processor, and many more. Check out PCWorld’s guide if you really want to understand how they all interact to make up performance.

As with many aspects of PC buying, you generally get what you pay for, so let price be a rough guide to processors when the tangle of naming schemes and specs proves to be a little bit too much, and do research on the individual processor you’re considering buying to get a better idea how it will perform with what you intend to use it for.

Also keep in mind that the most powerful processors eat up the most battery life. Even if you have the extra cash to throw around, picking up an oinker of a processor might come back to bite you if you plan to spend the majority of your computing time away from an outlet.

Showing 7 comments

  1. bestoremann at 5:03am 9th March 2011 Very useful information. Thanks for sharing. If you guy looking for a new gaming laptop; please visit http://lowcostgaminglaptop.com/ there are many deal on gaming laptop price $500-$1000
  2. Richard Di at 5:09pm 12th February 2011 how good is toshiba laptops, and if all I do is doing school work, games and other softwares like chatting, music and somethimes movies, what kind of graphics should i chose?
  3. Tom at 11:48am 1st October 2010 which is better, Sony vaio e: 4gb ram-intel i3 2.26 GHz-500GB hard drive-blue ray dvd drive-ati 5470 or Hp dv6: AMD Phenom II X2 Processor N620 2.8 GHz-4gb ram- ati 5470- 320gb hard drive 7200rpm. Thanks :)
    1. Carlos R at 11:33am 4th October 2010 Get Sony, I have an HP laptop and let me tell you, it is loud as hell and has over heating problems. Sounds like a jet when turning on and after a couple of minutes after running microsoft word. I can tell you how and why it overheats as well. The fan to suck in air is small, and is located right under the laptop. This is ok, but a fan to suck in air is not reliable as a fan that sucks OUT hot air. As a Tech, this is a major design flaw. I overlooked that aspect when I bought my HP laptop last year. Just so happened to mess up right after my warranty expired. I suggest the Sony one, I would take a messed up battery over a flawed motherboard design any day. Atleast then it would be cheaper to replace later, and free with warranty.
  4. dang at 10:56am 12th March 2010 The only "convenient" way is if you laptop has built-in WiFi. Then you can go to most coffee shops and get free wifi internet access.

    Other options are:
    - Most hotels now provide WiFi access, but there is usually a fee of $10 - $15 a day for it
    - You can get a 3G card from your Cell Provider. Prices usually range from $30-60/mo. They plugin to a USB slot or a PCMCIA. With this option, you don't need built-in wifi as the 3G card is your wifi adapter at that point.
  5. oldman at 9:34am 12th March 2010 being computer illiterate please excuse my ignorance...with a laptop how does one pay for internet access? at my home desktop i obviously pay a monthly bill to my internet provider, how is that done on the road with a laptop?
    1. Carlos R at 11:27am 4th October 2010 You can purchase a card for you laptop from a wireless provider. AT&T, Sprint, and Verizon offer wireless. Even Cricket. Not sure about the other companies though. They will charge you a monthly rate though. AT&T might actually have a better deal since they do internet at home now and might be able to give you a discount.
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