On today’s episode of You Asked: What’s wrong with the 97-inch LG G5 OLED? Are you getting a Netflix 100 error, and what can you do about it? Are there any good alternatives to hunting and pecking out usernames and passwords with your remote? How do you find a decent calibrator you can trust? (Yes, we’re tackling that again.) And finally, a follow-up on the Sony OLED clicking mystery from a previous episode.
Netflix 100 Error
Ken writes: I have a 2016 Sony X930D TV, which I love, but about once a month, I get an error 100 when streaming from Netflix. The web says to clear the cache, but that doesn’t fix it. I have to unplug the TV for 30 seconds and restart, which does work. Do you think Netflix or Sony will ever fix this? I’ve updated the firmware and the Netflix app multiple times, but the error persists. The web is full of reports on this, but Sony’s only advice is to clear the cache.
Hey Ken, first off — glad you’re still enjoying your TV! I know this issue well. The UI-100 error has been a recurring problem on older streaming devices, not just TVs. This happens because the Netflix app is likely trying to use an outdated security certificate or connection protocol.
Modern streaming apps on updated platforms can often refresh themselves automatically, avoiding errors like this. Older systems? Not so much. That’s why you’re seeing this issue.
So, what’s the fix? Unfortunately, Sony isn’t going to patch this, and neither is Netflix — your TV’s hardware limitations are the issue. The best solution? Get a streaming stick or box.
If you’d asked a year ago, I would’ve recommended a Chromecast with Google TV for about $50, but that’s been discontinued. Now, I suggest the Google TV Streamer 4K — about $100, super powerful, and will probably outlast your TV. It supports all the latest HDR and audio formats, and most importantly you’ll likely never see that Netflix 100 error again.
I hate that the fix costs money, but I do think it’s the right move.
HDR10+ Brightness Issue on Hisense U8N
Dan writes: On my Hisense U8N, when I watch HDR10+ content, peak brightness and local dimming are turned off by default in Theater Mode. This exposes backlight clouding. Is this how HDR10+ is supposed to work? Can I adjust settings to minimize clouding without returning the TV?
Dan, I’d love to know whether those settings are turned off (which means you can adjust them) or disabled (which means the TV locks them out).
I tested this on a Hisense U9K with Jack Reacher on Amazon Prime (HDR10+ content), and I noticed the same default settings — local dimming and peak brightness set to off. I don’t think that’s the best move from Hisense. However, I was able to manually turn local dimming to low, medium, or high, which unlocked the peak brightness setting.
If you can adjust the settings but they don’t stay saved, that’s odd — make sure “Apply to all inputs” is selected. If the settings are fully locked, check if a firmware update is available:
Settings → System → About → System Update
I’ll also check with Hisense to see if this is a restriction on the new ULED TVs. Let me know what happens!
Remote Control Password Frustration
Tim writes: One of the most frustrating things is scrolling through the alphabet to enter passwords using my remote. Do you think TVs will ever come with a remote that lets us type on a keyboard? Arthritis is not my friend!
Tim, you’re absolutely right — arthritis is nobody’s friend. Fortunately, most apps today let you scan a QR code with your phone to log in, or they provide a web link with a short numerical code. If you don’t see those options, your device or apps might be outdated.
As for remotes with full QWERTY keyboards — don’t hold your breath. While some older models had them, they never really caught on. Your best bet? A modern streaming box or stick, which will likely support faster login options and a better overall experience.
Finding a Trustworthy Calibrator
DT Member Sean writes: How do I find someone qualified to calibrate my Nakamichi Dragon system or my A95L TV? How do I know they’re legit and charging fairly?
Great question. For TV calibration, I recommend looking for ISF-certified calibrators. You can:
- Check the ISF website for certified professionals in your area.
- Call Best Buy and ask if they contract with ISF-certified techs.
- Ask calibrators for customer testimonials or online reviews before hiring them.
For audio calibration, there aren’t as many scammers — if someone’s doing this work, they’re probably legit. However, check for customer reviews to make sure you’re getting someone experienced.
The 97-inch LG G5 OLED — What’s the Deal?
Brandon writes: Is there something wrong with the 97-inch LG G5? You mentioned it in a previous video but never elaborated.
Brandon, you’re right — I totally meant to circle back on that but got sidetracked. The 97-inch G5 does not have the new four-stack Tandem OELD panel found in smaller sizes.
Why? My guess: cost and manufacturing limitations. The mother glass used for OLED panels has to be cut efficiently, and the 97inch size eats up an entire sheet. Adding MLA would make it even more expensive, so LG likely opted to keep costs somewhat in check.
It’s still a fantastic TV — but if you were expecting MLA tech, it’s worth knowing it’s not there.
Sony OLED Clicking Mystery — Solved?
David previously asked about his Sony OLED making a phantom clicking sound. We theorized it might be a power relay switch, and many of you chimed in with experiences.
- Marco: The TV seems to turn on briefly at fixed times — possibly for channel guide updates.
- Ramy: Sony TVs enter a deep off state 10 minutes after turning off, triggering a click.
- Eric: It’s almost certainly a mechanical relay switch.
Others reported the same issue with Panasonic OLEDs, so this isn’t just a Sony thing. If it bothers you, try disabling automatic updates, OLED refresh cycles, and channel guide updates. But honestly, it’s probably just part of how the TV operates.
